Unexpected Autumn: October in Anchorage

When discussions of Autumn destinations commence, what are the most common regions thrown into the mix? The Great Smoky Mountains and Blue Ridge Parkway, New England, Colorado. But Alaska? Before you knock the idea, hear me out…Alaska is an absolutely overlooked gem when it comes to Autumn travel.

We never intended to visit Anchorage in October. Our leaf-peeping list is so long already, plus we are all too familiar with early season snowfall and cold. But when a last-minute deal popped up, we took the (almost) polar plunge and jet-set to the Last Frontier. We hopped an early morning Alaska Airlines flight out of Seattle (Alaska Air flies nonstop to Anchorage from multiple locations in the lower 48 and Hawaii, including Portland, LAX, O’Hare and Phoenix), scoring a free First Class upgrade thanks to Alaska’s excellent elite status program.

Southward on Seward

With our GPS set for Alyeska, we hopped on the scenic Seward Highway, which absolutely dazzles during October, with a combination of striking yellow foliage on the lower hills, a blanket of snow in the high country, and the shimmering waves of Turnagain Arm. There are multiple pull-out spots along the way to snap some photos. In Alyeska, you can find enough to fill a couple hours or a couple days, whatever you like. For a quick stop, make sure to grab a coffee and sweet roll from The Bake Shop, followed by an Orange Creamsicle Milkshake IPA or a hearty Oatmeal Coffee Stout from Girdwood Brewing. If time allows, take the aerial tram up the west flank of Mt. Alyeska for a bird’s eye view of the resort. Nearby hikes also provide great ways to spend an afternoon, weather-dependent, of course.

Our turnaround point along our southward journey was the Byron Glacier Trail, which provides a family-friendly 1.4 mile trail toward the base of a beautiful glacier, with rugged ridges lining both sides of the hike. The trail was snow-free when we hiked in mid-October, but the gentle grade and wide trail make this a good jaunt with some fresh snow as well.

On our return trip, and with the sun dipping lower into the sky, we made a final stop at the Potter Marsh Wildlife Viewing Boardwalk, hoping to peep a moose, but settled for a multitude of waterfowl. We wrapped up the evening with a burger, pizza and beer at 49th State Brewing in downtown Anchorage, before retiring to the stately Highland Glen Lodge Bed & Breakfast, which tragically burned during the middle of 2022.

Into the Wild

Day 2 featured a grab bag of short hikes, giving us small windows into the wild that surrounds Anchorage. First thing in the morning, we drove up to the Anchorage Overlook at the Glen Alps trailhead, and hiked a short loop along the approach to Flattop Peak. Due to the amount of snow at this elevation, we opted not to attempt the summit, and settled for a wintry traverse full of stunning views, and a single Willow Ptarmigan dressed in its robe of winter white. Hopping up north to Eagle River, we took a short walk in the woods to South Fork Falls, enjoying pockets of gold foliage and vibrant berries along the trail. The Eagle River Nature Center provided our next stop, where we wandered the trails and boardwalks with the hopes of seeing some of the salmon-loving locals, but struck out and settled for watching the dark red salmon cruising the current of the river.

With scenic snapshots in our memories and several miles on the tread of our boots, we rolled into Anchorage for stops at King Street Brewing for one of the best Irish Stouts I have tasted, and Anchorage Brewing for some unique brews and an even more unique taproom. As the sun set over Cook Inlet, we savored fresh seafood at The Crow’s Nest at the Hotel Captain Cook in downtown Anchorage.

Peak Performance

With another morning of sunny skies, we drove to Eklutna Lake to hike the Twin Peaks Trail, with the promise of some of the most stunning alpine views in the area. The official trail only goes about 2.5 miles, and, though it gains 1800 feet of elevation, is a great family-friendly option that will provide you with a beautiful vantage point to the lake and out to the surrounding mountains. To extend your hike, continue along the trail another 2+ miles of climbing, and you’ll reach an expansive ridge with jaw-dropping views of the lake to the east, with towering Gold Star Peak to your back. The final stretches of trail can be a little challenging, especially in the snow. We had to step gingerly in several places, as a slip could lead to a long tumble down the mountain. Microspikes and poles are also a helpful addition.

With our eyes full from mountain views, we dropped out into Palmer and Wasilla for a brewery-hopping post-hike wind down, with stops at Arkose, Bleeding Heart, Matanuska and Bearpaw River breweries, for a kaleidoscope of hop infusions ranging from blueberry ale and raspberry wheat to coffee porter and nitro cream ale.

Snow Way!

With a dusting of fresh snow when we awoke, plus snow showers to come, we opted for a simple day in town, starting with cinnamon and caramel rolls and coffee at House of Bread south of town, followed by window shopping, mural viewing and people watching in downtown. We spent some time relaxing and playing card games at Turnagain Brewing before retiring early for an evening watching the Grumpy Old Men movie duo at the bed & breakfast.

The following morning greeted us with an even greater blanket of snow, but the promise of tapering showers. As the sun broke through, we headed to the McHugh trailhead along the Seward Highway, and hiked south along the Turnagain Arm trail, which gave us stunning water and mountain views, deep, fresh powder on trail, and striking yellow foliage emerging as the snow melted in the warming sun.

Back on the road, we drove south and east to the tiny port town of Whittier. With a clear route blocked by towering mountains, reaching Whittier requires a drive through the 2.5-mile long Anton Anderson Memorial Tunnel, the longest highway tunnel in North America. At just over one lane wide, the tunnel allows one direction of travel at a time, scheduled on the half hour. Even crazier still, the travel lane shares space with railroad tracks, allowing daily freight rail service to and from the port. Whittier itself nearly closes up once the summer cruise and travel season is finished, so we crammed into the Lazy Otter Cafe with the handful of locals and travelers in town, for coffee and sandwiches overlooking the nearly empty harbor. After eating, we hit the Blackstone Bay Vista Trail to take in views of the town from a snowy landing a little over a mile up the hill. Finally, we sought out a secret beach along the Shotgun Cove Trail, where we found seclusion, gentle waves and endless piles of rocks to skip before our return drive.

Good Goodbye

With an afternoon flight looming, our final morning provided just enough time to mark off our remaining few Google Maps pins. We started with a hearty breakfast of benedicts at Snow City Cafe, followed by a chilly round of disc golf at Kincaid Park, which features 40 miles of walking, biking and ski trails, beaches along Cook Inlet, airplane viewing by the airport approach, and several resident moose.

As we sat in the terminal before our return trip to Seattle, we found ourselves both satisfied and surprised. Nearly a full week of hiking, scenic drives, great food and brewery visits met all our ideal travel criteria, but the lack of summertime crowds allowed it all to be at a more relaxing pace. Further, we never expected to encounter so much Autumn color, and were especially awestruck at the contrasting golden hues with the unblemished white snow and the deep azures of the lakes and inlets. It was our first taste of Alaska, and we were hooked; now the Last Frontier will always be one of our first choices for travel.