As long as Autumn lasts, I shall not have hands, canvas, and colors enough to paint the beautiful things I see. ~ Vincent Van Gogh

Name Something to Do With…

Cleveland, Akron, Canton. The Cavaliers and Browns, the Football and Rock & Roll Halls of Fame. Violent Crime, big industry, pollution. To much of the country, these features and stereotypes might be the “Top 8 Answers on the Board” if the area came up as a category on Family Feud. But park space, trails, waterfalls, conservation, history, and stately forests? Probably not as common of an answer among the 100 people surveyed for the game. In spite of these attitudes, with or without merit, Cleveland holds one of the hidden gems of the American National Parks collection in its own backyard.

Nestled in the valley between Cleveland and Akron lies Cuyahoga (kai·uh·how·guh  🔊 ) Valley National Park, and one of the best map dots for autumn exploration. Established originally as a National Recreation Area in 1974, and upgraded to National Park status in 2000, the park now encompasses over 32,000 acres, with an incredible network of trails and scenic points, connecting pockets of local and Indigenous history with the modernity of cities and highways. Outdoor activities range from hiking the over 125 miles of trails, to freshwater fishing, to skiing, and even scenic train rides, and nearly everything in between. And while the park has unique beauty and appeal any time of year, autumn is when it absolutely dazzles.

Where to Start?

With so many options, you may be wondering how to plan out your visit. First things first, head to the heart of the park and the Boston Mill Visitor Center, opened in 2019 in a historic 1905 general store. Boston also happens to feature a popular wintertime ski hill, general store and cafe, and access to several hiking opportunities. If you are in need of provisions or food before setting out for the day, hop a couple miles south to the tiny town of Peninsula, and pick up produce and snacks from Purplebrown Farm Store, stuff yourself with Very Berry French Toast from Fisher’s, or sample the popcorn varieties at The Crooked Kettle Popcorn Company, including such local favorites as Tutti Frutti and Buffalo Breath.

Lace up the Hiking Boots

After our Peninsula fuel stop, we headed out for a full day of hiking and leaf peeping. Our first stop was the Horseshoe Pond Trailhead, where we strolled the 2.8-mile loop through old evergreen field rows along with deciduous pockets that provided a multi-color forest floor carpet. This trail is relatively flat, and good for all ages. Another gorgeous option in this same region is the Oak Hill Trail, with stunning fall foliage and multiple hiking options, including a 1.8-mile loop with minor elevation change, or a longer 5-mile descent to the valley floor. For little legs, the shorter option still packs a punch in terms of forest features. Just a few minutes farther south, the Everett Covered Bridge provided us with an incredible photography spot, while others used it to access other popular trails. 

A few clicks east, our next choice was The Ledges, one of the most popular hiking locations in the park. Here, a trail totaling a little over 2 miles departs from a plateau and then loops around it, showcasing incredible cliffs and rock formations, draped with the golden beauty of changing leaves. This trail also connects to several others, allowing you to extend your hike as much or as little as you’d like. Nearby Kendall Lake Trail provides another scenic option, with a 1-mile loop around placid Kendall Lake, plus a fishing pier, picnic areas, and remnants of old CCC-built toboggan chutes.

Similarly popular, the Brandywine Falls area was our evening stop, where the 60-foot high falls tumbles into the gorge below. Once harnessed for hydropower, the falls now offers inspirational and relaxing views from either the gorge rim or from a viewing platform down a boardwalk with 80 steps. A 1.5-mile loop trail meanders the deep ravine, and puts on a show in the evening, as the low sun brings the yellows of the hardwoods into a new level of stunning. 

Note: On autumn weekends, the parking areas in the latter 3 locations fill quickly and remain near capacity for most of the day. 

Simple As Can Be

For those with physical limitations who cannot get out on traditional trails, or for cyclists or anyone looking for flat, leisurely strolls, the National Park also provides numerous access points to the 90+ mile Ohio & Erie Canal Towpath Trail. From 1827 to 1913, mules pulled canal boats carrying passengers and cargo along a 326-mile route from Lake Erie to the Ohio River, in multiple areas through a series of locks, many of which are still visible today. 

Along with trails managed by the National Park Service, look into Cleveland Metroparks and Summit Metroparks, both of which manage numerous trails, overlooks and scenic points both within and outside of Cuyahoga NP boundaries, such as the Bridal Veil Falls, Chippewa Creek, and Plateau Trails. In fact, Cleveland and Summit Metro Parks have such a network of green spaces that, when combined with park service trails, it is now possible to walk or bike, uninterrupted, essentially from Akron all the way to Lake Erie.

Still one more option, hop aboard the Cuyahoga Valley Scenic Railroad and take in the endless miles of autumn gold from the comfort of a vintage rail car. Seating ranges from coach to table, with a domed car offering panoramic views for wide-eyed children and children-at-heart. Other options include an evening excursion with a 4-course dinner, or the Ales on Rails featuring two hours of beer sampling. Occasional short kid-oriented rides include options for crafts making or themes such as Superheroes on the Train. Check schedules and pricing on their website, or keep up with them on social media for up-to-date information. 

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Outside of your days full of hiking and leafing, make sure to stop by a few of the local haunts for some good eats and drinks. For your morning grub, pop into Blue Door Cafe & Bakery for a Brioche Sticky Bun or Pain Au Chocolat if you’re in a hurry, or a full brunch featuring seasonal crepes and quiche or Old Town San Diego Huevos Rancheros if you can score a spot on the waitlist.

If you happen to be in the park on a Saturday morning, head south of Peninsula to the Cuyahoga Valley Farmers Market, where you’ll find fresh produce and so much more. On a crisp October morning, we warmed up with some of the best coffee we’ve had from Bereka Coffee, which sources organic beans from small family farms in Ethiopia. We also savored local honey and maple syrup from Tierra Verde Farms, stocked up on luxurious and toxin-free goat milk soap, and perused a host of handmade crafts and goods.

For lunch, how about a Carne Asada Bowl or an Amigos Burrito with chicken and chorizo, paired with a margarita from Alejandro’s Amigos Taqueria just east of the park? Finally, round out the evening with some brewery hopping in downtown Akron, with great stops like R. Shea Brewing, where you can chow down on a piled-high Mushroom, Onion & Swiss Burger or the Angry Pig Pizza topped with an array of pork cuts and peppers. Wash it all down with a seasonal Akröner Festbier or the One S’more Time pastry milk stout. 

Once your legs won’t take you another foot and your belly is full of hearty fare, hit one of the local inns for the night, and do it all again tomorrow! 

Please recreate responsibly and kindly. This park is and was the home of many. From the multiple tribes that once called this land home, to the current residents of Peninsula and surrounding towns, plus countless resident wildlife, Cuyahoga Valley is an important place. Drive courteously, pack out your trash, stay on trails and respect private property.

All photos © Eric S. Allan 2022