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Rising out of the Salish Sea between Anacortes and Victoria, the San Juan Archipelago is a highlight of maritime Northwest Washington. With over 400 islands and rocks and 478 miles of shoreline, the islands provide a bounty of recreation for hikers, boaters and bikers alike. Of the islands, 4 are accessible to vehicular traffic, via the Washington State Ferry route out of Anacortes. Though summer typically sees many visitors, exploring the islands in the shoulder season before summer hits provides a much quieter atmosphere and treats visitors to the slow pace of island life the locals prefer. Read on for just a small taste of what to expect next time you visit!

Day 1:

Just before the calendar rolled from spring into summer, my wife and I spent several days trading destination ideas for a 4-day getaway with our then 5-month old son. With some unexpected sunshine in the forecast, we jumped on a last-minute ferry reservation opening to the San Juan Islands, and somehow scored one-night camping stays on each San Juan, Orcas and Lopez Islands. So we loaded up the SUV and headed from Arlington to Anacortes to catch a foggy morning ferry. Shortly into the crossing to Friday Harbor, the fog lifted, giving way to some of the most beautiful maritime scenery in the region. We marveled at the homes perched on bluffs or private beaches, gazed out to the other passing vessels and even spied a pod of whales breaching at a distance.

Upon disembarking in Friday Harbor, we immediately headed for kid-friendly San Juan Island Brewing, home to my favorite ESB, plus an incredible seasonal pumpkin ale. For food, I highly recommend the CBJ Burger with bacon onion jam and smoked gouda, or the No. 2 Schoolhouse Pizza with local sausage and Mama Lil’s Peppers. Post-beer, we hit up Serendipity Used Books, with so many options that many are piled in boxes stacked nearly to the ceiling.

Our next stop was the San Juan Island Sculpture Park in Roche Harbor, where you can check out approximately 150 sculptures of various media, spread across 20 acres of flower beds and meadows perfect for strolling. I was especially fond of the “Grumpy Man,” “Dog One” & “Dog Two,” and “Big Bird.” This is also a great spot for spying rufous hummingbirds, swallowtail butterflies and various waterfowl.

Just a few paces north is a simple trail to the John S. McMillin Memorial Mausoleum, an enchanting fixture in the woods sure to please all ages. It’s about a mile round trip, and parking is by the intersection of Afterglow Dr and Cessna Ave; the trail starts at the north corner of the Y-intersection.

Post-wandering, we popped on down to the Roche Harbor community to grab a couple donuts at the Lime Kiln Cafe before perusing the gardens at Roche Harbor Resort.

As a leisurely end to the day, we spent a bit of time admiring the lighthouse at Lime Kiln Point State Park. Though it was closed upon our visit, the rocks and waves made for a scenic walk.

For our overnight accommodations, we lucked out just days before and scored an open campsite at San Juan County Park, situated on the west side of the island not far south of Roche Harbor. Just about every site here comes with a view of the water. After admiring the sunset from the bluff, we settled into our campsite for some evening games (One of my favorite camp games is Bananagrams, just be sure to use a tablecloth so you don’t lose the tiles through the picnic table). As dusk fell, we were visited by the unofficial welcoming committee, a red fox who first sniffed about our campsite and fire pit before making the rounds through the rest of the campground, likely searching out an easy meal (Please keep food safely secured in your vehicle due to wildlife). 

Day 2:

The next morning, after we broke camp, we made stops at both portions of San Juan Island National Historical Park. English Camp near Roche Harbor features scenic waterside parade grounds, picturesque gardens and a couple short hiking options great for kids. At the far south of the island, American Camp offers a bit more extensive hiking, with a web of trails through meadows and along bluffs. From the trail to South Beach, you may get lucky and spot a couple of the resident foxes who call the prairie home.

Rounding back through Friday Harbor, we lunched at Tina’s Place, with a great variety of tacos and burritos, which we enjoyed from the patio above the ferry holding lanes. Just before boarding the ferry, be sure to make a quick stop into Salty Fox Coffee for an iced americano or seasonal latte.

The ferry ride from Friday Harbor to Orcas Island is even more scenic than the initial trip from Anacortes, as the vessel winds through narrow passages between evergreen-coated islands and islets.

After landing, we spent the early afternoon visiting some of the local farms, with stops at Warm Valley Orchard for hand-spun Corriedale sheep yarn and Lum Farm for some delicious cajeta swirl goat milk ice cream. On your visit, be sure to spend a few minutes wandering their paths to spy some of the goats up close. In Eastsound, we snagged a 4-pack of K-Pod Kölsch from Island Hoppin Brewery and drove to our campsite at Moran State Park. 

The park encompasses over 5,000 acres and is home to Mount Constitution, the highest point in San Juan County at 2,407 feet. The campground offers 124 campsites, just steps from Cascade Lake, where you’ll find great options for hiking, swimming, SUP/kayaking and fishing. In the evening, we made the winding drive up to the top of Mount Constitution, with the Ellsworth Storey Tower perched on top. The 53-foot lookout tower provides a breathtaking 360-degree panoramic view of the San Juans, the Salish Sea and beyond. Even on a partly cloudy evening, we could see Canadian Cascade peaks to the north, and as far south as Three Fingers Mountain and Mount Pilchuck. Mount Baker dominates the view to the east. Back at camp, we enjoyed our beer and homemade chili by the campfire with peek-a-boo views of the lake and lingering color from sunset. 

Day 3:

In the morning, our first step was to head back into Eastsound and join the queue at Brown Bear Baking, a place so popular that you’ll likely be waiting on the front walk even on a weekday. The pain aux jambon and kouign amann were absolutely exquisite, and we barely missed out on the coveted croque monsieur with asparagus, snagged by the gentleman just ahead of us. For coffee, we stopped by Olga Rising, with a reputation as rich and bold as their shots of espresso. 

Back in the park, we stopped at the Cascade Falls trailhead, which offers several hiking options to four different waterfalls, and connections to other park trails. Our little one loved staring up at the old growth evergreens and the tumbling falls. We walked a total of just over 1.5 miles, before putting in another 1.5 along the shores of Mountain Lake just up the road.

With a bit of an appetite built up, we followed a recommendation to Buck Bay Shellfish Farm, an unassuming roadside facility that offers some of the best seafood we’ve ever had. The daily chowder variety is a chef’s choice, and our day happened to be a tomato-filled Manhattan-style with just a kiss of spice. We also shared melt-in-your-mouth halibut with chips, and went bottoms up with sweet and briny oysters harvested just steps away in the bay. I couldn’t resist taking some smoked salmon and smoked cod to go, which essentially ruined store-bought smoked fish for me! I cannot emphasize this enough: If you visit Orcas Island and love seafood, Buck Bay is a must-visit!

For our next stop at Lopez, we joined a small handful of vehicles and passengers on the interisland ferry, first making a stop at tiny Shaw to let 6 cars and a crowd of walk-ons disembark before our own stop at Lopez. For our camping, we were treated to a surprisingly uncrowded Spencer Spit State Park, which is commonly at capacity during peak months. Our spacious campsite featured mixed forest and underbrush on three sides, providing great privacy and an enjoyable evening campfire spot. Our little guy enjoyed watching the fire from his stroller at a distance, bundled up in a thick sleeper and alpaca wool hat.

Day 4:

The next morning, we enjoyed a campsite breakfast of eggs and smoked ham on our Smithey No. 10 Flat Top Griddle, then headed to the popular Lopez Island Farmers Market, open every Saturday from mid-May until Mid-September. The market features a fresh variety of local vendors and farmers, selling everything from freshly-harvested snap peas and meats, to fabric craft and pottery, to wine and plants. We noshed on doughy bagels from North Star Farm, sipped espresso from Wanderlust Coffee Roasters, and took home hand-crafted salad tongs made by a local teen with Lopez-sourced yew wood. We also wandered the rest of the main Lopez town, with stops in Lopez Bookshop (thrifty minds like me will love the discount room!) and neighboring Holly B’s Bakery for croissants.

Heading southeast to the far corner of the island, we spent midday hiking in San Juan Islands National Monument, a little-known protected space of waters, headlands, beaches and forests. We made a figure-8 loop along a network of trails to secluded Watmough Bay and Point Colville, totaling about 3 miles through peaceful woods, featuring stunning Salish Sea views. Being on a lesser-visited island and off the beaten path, the national monument trails do not see much in the way of crowds; during our hike, we passed only a handful of others. Other nearby options include jaunts to Iceberg Point or Shark Reef. 

For lunch we stopped back in town for some amazing tacos from El Taco Bout It food truck (trust me, you’ll want seconds), and then headed early to the ferry line. We parked about 90 minutes before sailing, and walked up the hill and across the street to the trailhead for Upright Head, a forested property once slated for luxury home development, and now owned by the San Juan County Conservation Landbank. With just over a mile of hiking and only a few areas with elevation gain, Upright Head is the perfect place to stretch your legs or let the kiddos get some energy out before the ferry ride. The bluffs provide great views of the passing ferries and picturesque forests. The overlooks do have steep drop-offs, so keep little ones close. With our floating chariot awaiting, we left the pastoral slowness of the islands and headed back toward the hustle and bustle of mainland life, vowing to not wait so long before returning once again.

This article was originally written for and published in Washington Trails Magazine. Click here to help support Washington Trails Association.

All photos and content © Eric S. Allan 2023-2024

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