With glimpses of green beyond the glass, I reached for the door and pulled it open. I was swaddled in a warm, humid blanket of air, and smelled the sweet and pungent aroma of earth and flora. Ahead lay a jungle of leaves. Though not through a wardrobe, it was as if I had suddenly been transported to some tropical Narnia. As I gazed up at the canopy of fronds stretching above my head, my little one toddled along behind excitedly, squealing with delight as he pointed at a cascading flow of water passing maidenhair ferns. 

Sadly, a board-short wearing Mr. Tumnus was not waiting beyond the bend of the path. We had instead entered the Fern Room at the Marjorie McNeely Conservatory at St. Paul’s Como Park. Opened in late 1915, the conservatory boasts 2 acres of indoor botanical magic, along with multiple other wings and outdoor gardens. Shortly after opening, the conservatory hosted the city’s annual chrysanthemum exhibition, followed later by Christmas and Spring flower shows. With a full renovation in 1987 and subsequent additions and expansions, the conservatory has seen regular upgrades for both plant and visitor environment (Be sure to read the full history of the Como Park Zoo & Conservatory here). Today, the conservatory includes such features as the aforementioned Fern Room, a Bonsai collection, the Palm Dome and the Sunken Garden. 

In the Fern Room, I was taken aback by what I initially thought to be palm trees, but realized were 12-foot tall ferns with trunks the size of my arm and fiddleheads that looked like a giant green cinnamon rolls perched atop their stems. Horsetail taller than the artichoke plant in my garden lurked beyond a bounty of ferns I had never before seen, and aquatic plants graced the top of a small water garden. 

Tearing myself away from the hypnotizing sea of green, we next entered the Palm Dome, with a towering glass ceiling and beautiful palm varieties craning toward the top. Along the ground spread a carpet of orchids, bromeliads and oversized versions of the little houseplants I try to please at home. Sporadic benches invited us to sit and gaze, but our energetic little one kept enthusiastically pointing out different plants around the dome. 

Off to the north we entered an entire wing devoted to herbs and spices, featuring plants I had never envisioned. My entire mental image of how certain spices grew was upended, and I was amazed at the size of some of the plants. Perusing the living apothecary sent my culinary imagination racing, as I thought through some of my favorite recipes. 

To the south of the dome, the real showstopper took my breath away, as we entered the unbelievable Sunken Garden, with a narrow reflecting pool, flanked by fire-red salvia and dwarf citrus trees. Paths on either side were lined with hot pink petunia and crimson snapdragon. Arching panes of glass met at the top of the structure, looking like some cross of a royal English greenhouse and a stately historic train station. The far end of the pool featured a small statue of a woman tiptoeing through the lily pads. 

Strolling in the transcendent glow of trees and flowers, I felt as if I could wander in this euphoric balminess for hours. Alas, a 15-month old going at full speed tires out quickly, and our visit had to come to an end. 

For your own garden visit, stop by daily between 10 a.m. and 6 p.m. (with shortened hours during winter months). Admission to the entire complex is free, with a suggested donation of $4 per adult and $2 per child. 

The full complex includes a connected zoo, numerous outdoor gardens and a carousel. Be sure to peruse the Tropical Encounters, featuring a mock Central and South American environment with over 700 plants, and animals including turtles, fish, birds and the crowd favorite, Chloe the Sloth. 

The park is run by the St. Paul Parks & Recreation Department, but relies heavily on citizen and visitor support. Zoo and garden lovers can help by purchasing an annual membership, shopping at the on-site gift shop, supporting conservation programs or volunteering. Check the Programs & Classes tab on the homepage to learn about opportunities for classes and field trips, plus senior programs, live music and behind-the-scenes tours. 

All photos and content © Eric S. Allan 2024

For media and publication inquiries: eric@corneroffirstandadventure.com