I stumbled upon an unattributed quote on Pinterest recently, saying, “In the Mediterranean, every meal is a feast, and every day is a celebration.” Sadly, neither my calendar nor bank account will sign off on my leave request to spend a month wandering from Valencia to Ikaria. The good news is I can get a literal taste of the Mediterranean with just a car, train or boat ride to downtown Vancouver, B.C. And as we bundle up and stride into the chill and darkness of winter, the warmth and comfort of food becomes all the more wonderful, and I know 2 great restaurants that fit the bill:

Mazahr Lebanese Kitchen

In the heart of Vancouver’s Fairview neighborhood, Kjirsti and I happened upon some of the finest flavors of the Levant. Our day leading up to this dinner was defined by two words: Atmospheric River. Soaking rains put a gloomy twist on our visit to the Lynn Canyon Suspension Bridge, with roaring waters, muddy trails and bone-penetrating chilly downpours. Searching for the ideal place to wring out the dreariness and soothe our souls, we found Mazahr Lebanese Kitchen. 

The setting was simple and homey. Tables featured a single chair on one side and a bench with pillows on the other. Stained glass panels masked the view of the kitchen; a single red, yellow and blue mosaic candle holder adorned the table. The dining area flowed into the semi-enclosed and unheated outdoor patio, and we were seated right at the junction of the warmth from inside and the slight chill trying to overtake it, enhancing the cozy atmosphere. 

To warm our bones, we started with one of the house-made tea blends, which seemed a bit more apropos than a cocktail, given the weather. As the sweet and floral elixir of lemongrass, citrus peel, rosehips and lavender in the Philosopher Brew streamed down my throat, I could feel my entire being start to relax and loosen, while Kjirsti sipped the complex mix of the Happy Wellness, with lemon balm, white and green teas, lemongrass, bergamot, citrus peel, lavender and jasmine.

As our server and the support staff kept our toddler smiling and giggling, we sauntered through an eastern Mediterranean journey of food. Starting with the Cold Mezza Sampler, we explored the fresh and tangy Shanklish (Bulgari cheese with tomatoes, onions and mint), the adventurous Muhammara (red peppers, walnuts, tahini and pomegranate molasses), and the savory Mutabbal (char-grilled eggplant, tahini, lemon and garlic), served with a side of pita. None of these were familiar to either of us, and the flavor combinations and profiles were unlike anything else I have sampled, with the Shanklish being my favorite.

For the second leg of our journey, we stuck with the option to try the most, sharing the Hot Mezza Sampler. This platter featured 2 each of falafel with cilantro and garlic, and kibbeh, which are cracked wheat croquettes stuffed with beef, lamb, pine nuts and spices. I loved the spicy/savory blend, and the cracked wheat outer shell provided a unique experience. Accompanying these small bites was deep fried cauliflower with a tahini, pomegranate and lemon dressing, as well as deep fried Halloumi cheese sticks, which I could easily go back and eat all day.

Rounding out our night, we shared an order of Baklawa, which, while a little too floral for my taste, consisted of a rich pistachio filling and flaky crust. (For those wondering, Lebanese baklawa features the same pastry base as Greek or Turkish baklava, but with different regional flavor variations. In our case, this turned out to be a significant dose of blossom water). In total, our meal for 2 totaled a little over $80 CAD with tax, or just shy of $60 American with the current exchange rate.

Maria’s Taverna

Following yet another day of unpleasant weather conditions, we ventured out the second night to Vancouver’s Kitsilano neighborhood, home of the wonderful Maria’s Taverna. Originally opened in 1987 by a native Greek, Maria’s offers hearty meals in a jovial space, making locals and strangers alike feel right at home. Though under new ownership, the same recipes and the same vibe continue to welcome guests through the blue door tucked in an alcove of white-washed stone. 

The outside appeared small and simple, but as soon as we opened the door, we were greeted with a cacophony of laughter and conversation, as if we were the last to arrive at a large family gathering. Glasses and silverware clinked, voices pitched and roared, and smiles abounded. As soon as we were seated, the couple at the next table introduced themselves and started chatting about and entertaining our toddler. Barely a moment in our seats, we already felt like long-time regulars. (Note: Photo below was toward the end of the evening as the crowd started to thin. Upon entering, nearly all tables were full).

With our previous night’s sampler success in mind, we jumped headfirst into the Greek Platter for Two, a generously heaped plate of steaming Greek favorites, accompanied by Greek salad, rice and roasted potatoes, plus pita bread with tzatziki. The mains featured in the sampler included Kleftiko (spiced lamb shoulder), chicken souvlaki, Dolmathes (beef and rice wrapped in grape leaves), broiled kalamari, and Keftedes (pan fried meatballs). The assortment hit all the right notes, each item unique from the next. I especially enjoyed the kalamari and chicken souvlaki, but would have gladly devoured an entire second platter, even over the objections of my full stomach. 

Without any other sides, drinks or dessert, the Greek Platter ran us $65 CAD plus tax, or just over $45 American, absolutely a reasonable price for a bountiful display of food and comfort. The full Maria’s menu features a veritable treasure chest of food options, with Greek entree staples, seafood, pasta and pizza, plus an impressive wine list featuring multiple British Columbia offerings and wines from around the world. 

(For one more great local comfort food option – albeit not Mediterranean – read all about our experience at Sector 7 Kitchen + Bar in nearby Richmond, B.C.)

All photos and content © Eric S. Allan 2024

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